Hemera e steps12/12/2022 ![]() Attach the cable guide and upper right corner of the PCB+mount to the Hemera using another T-nut + long screw. Bolt the PCB to the nut you pressed into the lower left corner of the mount. Use 1 M3 screw (not provided in the kit-you’ll need to find one the right length, because I can’t remember what I eventually scrounged from my hardware bin) to bolt the mount to the upper left T-nut of the Hemera (E3D provides extra T-nuts in the kit). It will clear the fan, if the stock Hemera fan is used.Ĭlean the nut recess in the PCB mount, and press/glue an M3 nut into it. The strike plate has a relief that ensures proper positioning against the carriage. ![]() Next, mount the limit switch strike plate using CA glue. Since different blowers have slightly different opening sizes and shapes, you will probably need to file the mount to fit first (I had to). When sized properly, the blower is held in place by friction (no screws or hold downs needed). The fan mount is slip fit into the opening in the blower. If you are worried about the screws working loose, use weak thread locker. Don’t tighten more than necessary, or you might deform the carriage. The holes in the sides of the carriage are for inserting an allen wrench (provided with the Hemera) to the recessed screws. Note that the screws barely engage the T-nuts, which is good, because you don’t want the screws to bottom out-that would break the T-slots on the Hemera (a commonly reported problem with screws too long). ![]() You might need to clean the recesses with a hobby knife, depending on material shrinkage and how clean your print turned out. Press and glue 2 M3 nuts into the top of the carriage to receive the screws that hold the belt clamp. You can also try a sandpaper wrapped pencil. Once the supports are removed from the parts, you may need to clean out the bore of the bottom air duct using a ¼ inch drill bit in order for the brass tubing used as the air nozzle to press fit well. The resin I used was a 50/50 mix of Siraya Tech Blue and Siraya Tech Build. I originally printed prototypes using my Qidi X-Plus, which produced useable parts, but with all the support issues and material limitations (shrinkage, deformation temperatures when hot end is mounted), I found resin was best. I printed everything using a resin printer (Epax X1, in this case). The PCB, blower fan, stepper motor cable, and thermocouple were salvaged from my standard Qidi extruder (don’t use the thermistor from the E3D kit-it isn’t compatible unless you use adapter electronics).Īdditional items needed: ¼ inch OD brass tubing for the filament cooling air nozzle, M3 screws (you will need to determine lengths yourself-sorry, I didn’t keep track), M3 nuts, CA glue, metal tubing cutter, double sided tape, other tools as needed for part clean up (sand paper, razor knife, ¼ inch drill bit, etc.). LEDholder.stl (optional general purpose glue on LED holder).ĜableGuide.stl (flex cable routing guide).PCBstandoff.stl (Qidi printed circuit board mount).LimitSwitchPlate.stl (striker plate for x-axis limit switch).ĜarriageV3.stl (carriage base, minus blower mount). ![]() Ī Qidi X-Plus carriage for the E3D Hemera (Hermes) extruder, instructions, and firmware settings file. Model originally uploaded to Thingiverse at. ![]()
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